Oaxaca, in southern Mexico, is a place where life moves to the rhythm of the market, the fiesta, and the kitchen. More than just a tourist destination, it’s a living culture of indigenous Zapotec and Mixtec traditions, vibrant textiles, and some of the most complex, delicious food in the Americas. This guide shows how to live like a local in Oaxaca City and its villages, from the bustling markets and street food to festivals and homestays.
Why Oaxaca Feels Like Living, Not Just Visiting
Oaxaca isn’t about ticking off sights; it’s about being part of daily life. In the city, families gather in the zócalo (main square), kids play in the streets, and neighbors chat over coffee and pan dulce. In the villages, people still speak Zapotec, weave on backstrap looms, and celebrate saints’ days with music, dance, and food that’s been prepared the same way for generations.
To truly experience Oaxaca, slow down. Shop at the same markets locals use, eat where they eat, and if possible, stay with a family or in a small guesthouse where you can learn a bit of Spanish, share meals, and understand the rhythms of Oaxacan life.
Must‑Visit Markets: Heart of Oaxacan Life
Oaxaca’s markets are where culture, food, and community come together. Here are the essential ones to visit.
1. Mercado 20 de Noviembre (Oaxaca City)
This is Oaxaca’s most famous food market, a must for anyone who wants to eat like a local.
- Pasillo de Humo (Smoke Alley): The highlight is this narrow corridor where vendors grill tasajo (thin beef), cecina (salted pork), chorizo, and chicken over open flames.
- Choose your meat, then they’ll cook it and serve it on a tortilla with grilled onions, guacamole, and salsas.
- Great for a quick, filling lunch; expect to pay around 80–120 MXN per plate.
- Other food highlights:
- Tlayudas (Oaxacan “tacos”): giant crispy tortillas topped with beans, cheese, meat, and salsa.
- Fresh juices and aguas frescas (hibiscus, tamarind, horchata).
- Mole pastes, dried chiles, and quesillo (Oaxacan string cheese).
- Tips:
- Go in the morning or early afternoon; it gets very crowded later.
- Bring small bills and be ready to bargain politely at non‑food stalls.
- Don’t be afraid to point and ask “¿Cuánto cuesta?” (How much does it cost?).
2. Mercado Benito Juárez (Oaxaca City)
Right next to 20 de Noviembre, this market is more about shopping than eating, but it’s essential for food lovers.
- What to buy:
- Mole pastes (mole negro, coloradito, amarillo, verde, etc.).
- Chocolate (for drinking or cooking) – many stalls have molinos (grinders) where you can customize your blend.
- Dried chiles, herbs, and spices.
- Quesillo, chapulines (grasshoppers), and other snacks.
- Souvenirs: leather goods, baskets, and some crafts (prices are higher than in villages).
- Tips:
- Ask for a small sample of mole or chocolate before buying.
- If you’re serious about cooking, buy mole paste and ask for instructions (many vendors speak some English).
- This market is very tourist‑friendly, so prices are a bit higher than in local neighborhood markets.
3. Central de Abastos (Abastos Market)
This is Oaxaca’s main wholesale market, where locals do their big weekly shopping.
- What to expect:
- Huge produce section with local fruits, vegetables, and herbs.
- Meat, cheese, and prepared foods (tamales, memelas, empanadas).
- Household goods, clothing, and some crafts.
- Why visit:
- It’s less touristy, so prices are lower and interactions feel more authentic.
- Great for seeing how Oaxacans shop and for buying snacks and ingredients for a picnic.
- Tips:
- Go early (7–9 AM) to see the market at its liveliest.
- Bring a reusable bag and small bills.
- If you’re not confident in Spanish, go with a local friend or guide.
4. Tlacolula Sunday Market (Tlacolula de Matamoros)
About 30 km from Oaxaca City, this is one of the oldest and most traditional markets in the region.
- When to go: Sunday is the big market day; the town fills with people from surrounding villages.
- What to see and eat:
- Barbacoa (slow‑cooked lamb or goat) – a local specialty, often served with tortillas and salsa.
- Pan de cazuela (a sweet, round bread) and other traditional baked goods.
- Handmade textiles, blouses, and rugs from nearby villages.
- Fresh produce, herbs, and regional ingredients.
- Tips:
- Take a colectivo (shared van) from Oaxaca City early in the morning.
- Eat at a local comedor (small restaurant) near the market for an authentic, affordable meal.
- Be respectful when photographing people and their goods; ask permission first.
5. Artisan Villages: Teotitlán del Valle & Beyond
Oaxaca’s villages are famous for their crafts, especially textiles and pottery.
- Teotitlán del Valle:
- Known for handwoven wool rugs and textiles using natural dyes.
- Many families welcome visitors into their homes and workshops; you can see the weaving process and buy directly from the weavers.
- Ask about the meaning of the designs (many are traditional Zapotec symbols).
- San Bartolo Coyotepec:
- Famous for black pottery (barro negro).
- Visit a family workshop to see how the clay is shaped and polished.
- Arrazola & San Martín Tilcajete:
- Home of the colorful wooden alebrijes (fantasy creatures).
- Many families have small workshops where you can watch carving and painting.
- Tips:
- Buy directly from artisans when possible; it supports the community and often gives better prices.
- Bargain politely; a small discount is normal, but don’t haggle aggressively.
- Ask about the materials and process – most artisans are proud to share their craft.
How to Respectfully Attend Local Festivals
Oaxaca’s festivals are deeply rooted in indigenous and Catholic traditions. Attending them is a privilege; doing so respectfully is essential.
1. Guelaguetza (July)
This is Oaxaca’s most famous festival, a celebration of indigenous cultures from across the state.
- What it is:
- A series of performances where delegations from different regions dance in traditional costumes, accompanied by music and sometimes theatrical elements.
- Held at the Guelaguetza Auditorium in Oaxaca City, usually on two Mondays in July.
- How to attend respectfully:
- Buy official tickets in advance; avoid scalpers.
- Dress modestly and comfortably; it’s a cultural event, not a party.
- Don’t block views or take flash photos during performances.
- If invited to a community celebration (not the main auditorium event), accept with gratitude and follow local customs (e.g., bringing a small gift, not drinking excessively).
- Alternative:
- Many communities hold their own Guelaguetza‑style events in July; ask locally or check community boards for smaller, more authentic gatherings.
2. Day of the Dead (Día de Muertos, November 1–2)
This is one of the most moving and beautiful celebrations in Oaxaca.
- What to expect:
- Families build ofrendas (altars) in homes and cemeteries, decorated with marigolds, candles, photos, and the favorite foods and drinks of the deceased.
- Cemeteries come alive at night with music, food, and quiet family gatherings.
- How to attend respectfully:
- In cemeteries, be quiet, respectful, and unobtrusive.
- Ask permission before taking photos of people or ofrendas.
- Don’t treat it as a “photo op” or costume party; it’s a deeply spiritual family event.
- If invited into a home, accept with gratitude, bring a small gift (flowers, pan de muerto, or a candle), and follow the family’s lead.
- Where to go:
- Oaxaca City cemeteries (like Xoxocotlán) are very popular with tourists; for a quieter experience, visit smaller towns like Zaachila or Tlacolula.
- Many communities also have processions, music, and food; ask locally about events.
3. Local Patron Saint Festivals (Fiestas Patronales)
Almost every town and village has a fiesta for its patron saint, usually in the summer or fall.
- What to expect:
- Music (bandas, brass bands), dancing (often in traditional dress), fireworks, processions, and lots of food.
- The atmosphere is festive but also deeply religious and community‑oriented.
- How to attend respectfully:
- Dress modestly and avoid excessive drinking or loud behavior.
- Ask before taking photos, especially of religious images or ceremonies.
- If invited to eat or drink with a family, accept graciously; it’s a sign of welcome.
- Don’t treat it as a “show” – it’s a real community event.
Street Food Etiquette & Must‑Try Dishes
Oaxacan street food is some of the best in Mexico. Here’s how to enjoy it like a local.
Street Food Etiquette
- Wash your hands or use hand sanitizer before eating.
- Eat at busy stalls – high turnover means fresher food.
- Point and smile if your Spanish is limited; most vendors are used to tourists.
- Carry small bills (20–100 MXN) for quick transactions.
- Don’t rush – sit down, enjoy the food, and chat with the vendor if possible.
- Leave a small tip (10–20 MXN) if you’re served at a sit‑down comedor or if the vendor is especially helpful.
Must‑Try Oaxacan Dishes
- Tlayudas
- A large, crispy tortilla spread with beans, quesillo, avocado, and your choice of meat (tasajo, cecina, chorizo, or chicken).
- Best eaten at a street stall or market; expect to pay 80–120 MXN.
- Mole
- Oaxaca is the “land of the seven moles” (black, red, yellow, green, coloradito, manchamanteles, and chichilo).
- Try mole negro with chicken or turkey; it’s complex, slightly sweet, and deeply savory.
- Many fondas (small restaurants) serve mole as a daily special.
- Tamales
- Oaxacan tamales are wrapped in banana leaves and often filled with mole, chicken, or cheese and herbs.
- Great for breakfast or a snack; sold in markets and by street vendors.
- Memelas
- Thick, handmade tortillas topped with beans, cheese, and salsa.
- Simple, delicious, and very affordable (30–50 MXN).
- Chapulines (Grasshoppers)
- A traditional snack, toasted with garlic, lime, and chili.
- Crunchy and tangy; try a small portion first if you’re unsure.
- Empanadas de amarillo / amarillito
- Corn masa turnovers filled with chicken in yellow mole, served with salsa and crema.
- A classic Oaxacan street food.
- Aguas frescas & tejate
- Aguas frescas (hibiscus, tamarind, horchata, melon, etc.) are refreshing and cheap.
- Tejate is a traditional pre‑Hispanic drink made from corn, cacao, and flowers; look for it at markets or in villages.
Tips for Connecting with Local Families & Homestays
The best way to live like a local is to stay with a family or in a small, family‑run guesthouse.
1. Choose the Right Accommodation
- Homestays & family guesthouses:
- Look for small, family‑run places in Oaxaca City or nearby villages.
- Many offer breakfast and sometimes dinner with the family, giving a chance to practice Spanish and learn about daily life.
- What to expect:
- Simple but clean rooms, shared bathrooms, and a warm welcome.
- Meals are often traditional Oaxacan food (mole, tamales, beans, tortillas).
- How to find them:
- Ask at local tourism offices, language schools, or community centers.
- Look for listings on local websites or Facebook groups focused on Oaxaca.
- Avoid big chain hotels if you want a more authentic experience.
2. Learn a Little Spanish
- Even basic Spanish (greetings, “thank you,” “excuse me,” “how much?”) goes a long way.
- Many Oaxacans, especially in villages, speak Zapotec or Mixtec as their first language and may not speak much English.
- A few phrases like:
- “Buenos días / buenas tardes” (Good morning / Good afternoon)
- “¿Habla inglés?” (Do you speak English?)
- “¿Cuánto cuesta?” (How much does it cost?)
- “Gracias” (Thank you)
3. Be a Respectful Guest
- Be punctual for meals and arranged activities.
- Ask before taking photos of people, homes, or religious items.
- Bring a small gift when visiting a home (fruit, pan dulce, or a small souvenir from your country).
- Respect local customs – dress modestly, avoid loud behavior, and follow the family’s lead.
- Offer to help – setting the table, washing dishes, or helping in the kitchen is often appreciated.
4. Participate in Daily Life
- Go to the market with your host family and learn how they shop.
- Help in the kitchen – many families are happy to teach you how to make tamales, mole, or tlayudas.
- Attend local events – if invited to a fiesta, wedding, or religious celebration, accept if possible.
- Learn about crafts – if staying in a weaving or pottery village, ask to see the workshop and learn about the process.
Final Thoughts: Living Oaxaca, Not Just Visiting
Oaxaca rewards travelers who slow down, open their hearts, and engage with the culture. By shopping at local markets, eating street food with respect, attending festivals thoughtfully, and staying with families, it’s possible to live like a local, even if only for a short time.
The real magic of Oaxaca isn’t just in the food or the crafts; it’s in the warmth of the people, the strength of their traditions, and the deep connection between community, land, and daily life. Come with curiosity, humility, and an appetite for both food and culture, and Oaxaca will welcome you like family.
